Climbing Conditions

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Missing Crux Hanger - Morro Peak Guide's Route

Morro Peak, Jasper National Park

Climbing Conditions

Climbed the Guide's Route on Morro Peak the other day. Before discussing the general condition, I will get to the reason for this post. The last crux at the top of pitch 8 is a tricky 5.7 that used to be protected by a bolt right before pulling the move. The hanger is now missing which makes this a very serious proposition with the potential for decking on a ledge 20m below if you blow the move. In addition, the guidebook states that there are two bolts on this pitch. All that was available was a single cam well below the crux which doesn't protect the crux at all. Bring a hanger and a 3/8" stainless nut if you are unsure if this situation has been rectified.

Not sure why the hanger is missing. I hope it wasn't removed by someone who thinks it isn't necessary! I will refrain from fully expressing my opinion if this is the case.

The 1st pitch is runout on loose rock, so you should be comfortable with this concept before considering this older route. The second pitch (first crux) has now had multiple bolts added. Unfortunately, the bolts are not up to modern standards and will need to be replaced sooner rather than later. They are likely quite adequate in the short term.

Many ledges have a lot of loose gravel as you top out, possibly due to having a lot of debris dragged down by the rains this spring / summer.

The belay on the comfortable ledge at the top of pitch 5 is only a single 3/8" self-drive (1980s / 1990s vintage) and is found about 6m / 20 feet left of the obvious crack you are climbing. It is on a blank wall, so supplementing with gear is not an option.

Cyril Shokoples

On The Map

These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.