Climbing Conditions

5 photos

Climbing Conditions

Observations from the last week:
Tangle Falls got hit hard with rain, warm temps and sun. The left flow has a huge open section with running water and the right flow is thin and bobbled with open water running through rocks at the flat bench above, although we were still able to get multiple good lines in.
Balfour Wall pillars are narrow. There was room for one line on each of the right and middle flows and two on the left.
Two O'Clock Falls was in great shape on the first two steps with five lines formed but the last pitch is narrower with no snow on the slope beneath it to prevent ice fall from bouncing all the way to the bottom and spraying widely.
The Weeping Wall Right was in generally good shape but spicy at the top. Left Hand is climbable with some wandering required to link the good ice. The Central Pillar is just touching down and would be scary now. The Upper Weeping Pillar has a narrow, scary looking pillar to finish.
The first pitch of Sniveling Gully was running water but looked good above.
The Whimper Wall looked in descent shape for this time of year.
Shades of Beauty was in narrower but easy condition with plastic ice. Snow amounts were below threshold for avalanches at lower elevations and where deeper (at the base and between pitches) it was low density (no slab) and bonding well to the Nov crust/facets.
Rick Black Memorial has no ice on the first pitch.
Haffner Creek had room for two ropes on the main ice flow and one on the far right pillar with other ice filling in nicely for this time of year.
Eyed from the road:
Icicle Fairy – wide, continuous ice above the roof.
Bow Falls- massively wide, and the two mixed lines on the far right side of that amphitheatre had lots of ice on them.
Riptide looks crazy wide except for the last skinny pitch which looks spicy. The seracs above the route have receded to a mere snow slope.
Rocketman looked thin.
Murchison and Virtual Reality looked phat, and there is another separate ice line beside VR that looks good.
Oh Le Tabernac and many lines in the Tabernac bowl looked good with lots of ice.
Nothing But the Breast is good except for the final pitch which is an unreliable looking anemic pillar.
There is a good looking WI 2/3 multipitch line to the left of Breast that has formed.
Ice Nine fell down last Tuesday.
Polar Circus – the first pitch of the upper headwall is patchy rock and ice but lots of good looking ice above.
Curtain Call is formed and looks in challenging shape.
Storm Creek and Stanley Headwall had tons of fat ice for this early in the season.
Photos: Weeping Wall, Two O'Clock Falls, Nothing but the Breast w/ easier route to the left, Shades of Beauty, Tangle Falls.

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These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.