Climbed the east ridge of Mt. Patterson yesterday (August 8th), and overall found the route in great shape with dry rock, no bare ice, and good bucket steps on the sections of ridge holding snow.

The lower couloir is holding mainly continuous snow but is melted out in a couple steep sections near the top. Given the warm temperatures we opted to completely avoid the couloir and limit our exposure to rockfall, taking the 3rd-4th class rock ledges on the climbers right to access the Snowbird glacier.

We took the descent into Delta Creek, where soft snow made for cautious travel on the glacier, with several sags showing. A solid ice axe with a steel spike and adze was helpful for chiseling steps and providing security on the steep gravel sidehill above the raging creek.

If choosing to reverse the route, the 30m rappels suggested in the Rockies West book avoid only the steepest sections of climbing, and it would still require significant exposed 3rd and 4th class downclimbing on loose rock. Bringing extra cord, a selection of pitons, and double ropes might be a good idea if considering this descent option.

Adam Greenberg
Ski Guide