Climbing Conditions

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Conditions Report from January 11th -15th Guide Training Ice

Rockies Ice Climbing Routes - Weeping Wall to Evan Thomas

Climbing Conditions

Weather: The week was warm in comparison to the seasonal average with temperature
ranging from -10 to +5. Region received up to 30-50 cm of snow Tuesday / Wednesday with amounts tapering as you move east. The recent storm was accompanied by strong to extreme westerly winds. The winds persisted after the storm with moderate to strong south westerly alpine winds noted on Thursday and Friday.

Avalanche Conditions: New snow and strong winds made for a challenging week on the guide training ice. 30-50cm of storm snow and strong SW winds lead to a widespread cycle with Na up to sz3 avalanches on all aspects at treeline and in the alpine. Continued SW mod-strong winds and mild temps are leading to wind slab and cornice development in the region. Sloughing and pinwheeling were observed on solar aspects.

Ice Conditions:  In the last 5 days through the guide training ice (ACMG TAP program) we were able to visit a few of the local hot spots.  Our venues were chosen carefully to reflect the avalanche conditions presented by this latest storm as well as road conditions.  Here is where we visited. Haffner Creek, the Junk Yards, Moonlight, Louise Falls, Weeping Wall, Nothing but the Breast, and Good Luck Bad Dreams.
 
We found some great training venues as well as some superb ice to climb.  Some stand out conditions include:
 
Moonlight: great condition, climbs well 
Weeping Wall:   In general, the ice is thinner than usual.  Lower angle ice is holding up to 30cm of fresh snow.  Upper pitches had some shell ice.  
Louise Falls: The upper portion of the climb has formed with much more ice than usual. The left and right crux pillars are very wet with newly formed ice. 
Nothing but the Breast: The lower half is fatter than usual. Last pitch is in awesome shape.
Good Luck Bad Dreams: The ice was quite anemic and dry.  Pitch 1 is no longer intact.
 
There is some great ice out there for those that are looking! We would like to thank the other parties we met along the way for accommodating our efforts.

On The Map

These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.