From September 7 to 10th Jeremy, on his third attempt on the mountain, and I climbed Yuhhaihaskun via the Kain Face.

We had the climb to ourselves. Overnight temperatures were above freezing, resulting in wet snow conditions and very mild surface consolidation. Thanks to the previous ascents a track still exists making progress easier.

The bergschrund has grown leaving a narrow steep snow bridge on the existing track, which still allows easy passage. The first pitch onto the lower face has mid thigh wet snow which can be excavated to ice. Subsequent pitches were on alpine ice. We traversed left to climb on calf-saving thin snow with screws for placements.

The traverse to the roof has melted leaving the existing track precariously close to cracks near cornices; we traversed 10 meters lower on icy rolls. Incredibly, half way to the Roof we crossed wolverine tracks at 3600 meters.

The upper pyramid has a combination of deep boot tracks and ice. All anchors were on screws save for one picket anchor.

From the snow conditions we ended the climb very wet after a long summit day.