Climbing Conditions

1 photos

Windy and warm

Nemesis, Stanley Headwall

Climbing Conditions

Today Carla Demyen and I were on the ice climb Nemesis. We climbed the first 40m of the route but bailed due to the combination of strong winds and warm temperatures. Many patches of ice on the steep rock next to the climb were melting off and being blown down the route. We feared getting in the cross fire of flying ice. We were happy to be distanced from the suspect hanging daggers on the left side of the route. Winds were moderate and gusting to strong much of the time. Spind drift was heinous and most likely would have gotten worse judging from the huge plumes we saw swirling around up high. There is not much snow left for transport but my guess is that underfoot windslabs in the alpine would have been small but reactive today. Too bad the weather conditions were not in our favour today. Ice on the route was excellent and protected well. On a side note we used skis to approach which worked well but we were very cautious of sharks just below the surface on the descent. Due to the facetted nature of the snowpack off the main trail, post holing would be knee deep.

On The Map

These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.