Larry Shiu and I have just returned from a seven day snow and ice climbing course based out of the Columbia ice field area. During the week we ascended various routes around Mt. Athabasca. In general there is still good snow coverage on the Glaciers and spotty snow patches down to 2000m. May 20 - 22 we experienced breakable crusts and challenging travel on snow below 2400m and excellent travel conditions above that elevation on the glaciers. Things changed however on May 23rd when warm temperatures and rain made travel on snow extremely difficult with knee to chest deep trail breaking in wet unconsolidated snow. These warm temperatures also brought with them an avalanche cycle of loose wet avalanches up size 1.5. Although we did not directly observe the higher elevations snow was definitely accumulating above 2700m.

Once things cool down and permit travel to the upper reaches of the mountains again be heads up for avalanche conditions. Most of the classic routes in the area are looking in great shape right now!