Hi all,

I just return from a relatively short trip to the Cirque of the Unclimbable in Nahanni National Park in the Northwest Territory from August 6-12, 2022. It was my second time guiding here since 2018. This time, we didn’t quite reach our goal; the praised Lotus Flower Tower via the classic Southeast face route (V, 5.10+, 700m). We managed to climb 13 pitches before retreating due to deteriorating weather and cold conditions. The climbing route was, not surprisingly, quite wet this year. The area had seen a very dry start to the summer however, a wet and unsettled pattern bringing regular showers and unseasonably cold temperatures was dominating since mid July. We endured part of this and associated conditions. The dry pattern appears to have return and optimal conditions should be improving.

As expected, we encountered wet and slimy cracks on the first 3 pitches. The chimney pitches to the bivouac ledge also sported some wet crack. The pitch 10 bivouac ledge was dry and more than comfortable with a party of 3. Wetness led way to dampness on the headwall above, some of the thinner initial cracks still being a little dirty. On top of pitch 13, it started snowing lightly and cloud cover was dropping. That’s when we decided to retreat and start rappelling. The upper headwall pitches appeared to be drier, but it was time for us to head down. The rappel route from here was straightforward and easy to locate however, some of the aging slings will need upkeep. Some of the rappels had potentially loose flakes and required good rope management.

The trail from Glacier Lake to Fairy Meadows was a bit slower compared to 2018. It has regenerated significantly in many areas. The first 2 kms had plenty of recent blowdown forcing regular off trail detours. Tricky with big heavy packs! The Fairy Meadows camp sites, food storage areas, outhouse, as well as the various trails/routes leading to most climbs were mostly snow free and in good shape. Crampons and ice axe were not required for LFT. Mosquitoes were very active during our visit, particularly at lower elevation. Head nets were a blessing. Cooler temps meant less mosquitos at higher elevations.

All in all, a fantastic but short trip to one of the world greatest alpine rock playgrounds.

Cheers,

David Lussier
acmg/ifmga
www.summitmountainguides.com