It was -35C at Rampart Creek Hostel at 0700h this am.

The open areas on the LHS have closed up with this week of cold. The Central Pillar is in good early season condition. The traditional RHS corner is still dry, and there is no ice to get to the normal bolt belay on P1.

The Lower Weeping Wall is getting full sun at 1000h. There is a lot of wet new ice with impenetrable cold dry ice between. We climbed two pitches today into the cave behind what would constitute a right line. Afternoon high cloud limited the sun effect and made the decision to descend easy.

An experienced party bailed on a central line due to water flow.

Snivelling Gully - P1 is fully frozen.
Dead Eye Dick - looks like it could take 10s and 13s throughout.
Whimper Wall - P1 still quite thin.
Upper Weeping Wall - most lines look quite good.

Brent Peters
Alpine Guide
PeakStratagem.com

Photos of Dead Eye Dick and Weeping Wall