Just back from a few days climbing out of the Haberl hut. Things are changing quickly as summer just hit, snow travel is slow especially in the afternoons. Flying in we saw evidence of multiple size 2 avalanches off the N face of Serratus. Of note is that solar effect has been producing slab avalanches not just loose snow avalanches primarily on N and W aspects. Mt. Sedgewick's N face had gone size 3 likely sometime June 16th as the temps first spiked. As we flew in a friend of ours (a Slovenian MG) had turned back on Serratus' N face pre-dawn and you know conditions aren't great if a Slovenian turns back.

We turned back from Tantalus, I was unwilling to cross the snowslope below Dione to get to Tantalus, even on belay early in the morning it was too spooky. So climbed Dione instead which was in fine shape.

Jo Bulmer ARG and Hannah Preston RG climbed Dehydrated on Dalwhinne on Dione and found the climb to be snow free and in excellent shape! From the summit they likely saw a cornice failure triggered avalanche sweep the darling coulior on Tantalus, confirming our good decision not to go.

My client and I also climbed the arête de Crosmiques and descended the W rib on Serratus. Jo and Hannah climbed this too and we all agreed it's a great route. You can avoid much snow travel and stay on the rock.

I think things will settle out here soon and regain a more normal melt freeze cycle but right now there is a lot of snow around and it's moving!