Climbing Conditions

2 photos

Warm Temperatures,

Whiteman Falls and Red Man Soars Climbs

Climbing Conditions

We climbed the first pitch of Whiteman's Falls today and chose not to finish the route due to warm temperatures and very wet conditions. The first pitch wasn't too wet but the cave belay on the left was was a shower. The route itself is quite fat for this time of year. Despite the huge mushrooms and their overhanging nature, there is a really nice line which takes good gear and leads you up to the cave on the left side. Above this most people seem to have been taking the centre line to the top. A report from yesterday is that a couple of holes of running water are forming as you top out. I wouldn't recommend climbing the route until temperatures cool significantly.
Red Man Soars is in excellent shape and has lots of ice and a good amount exactly where you want it. The anchor is quite buried by ice but has been beefed up with extra tat and an abalakov anchor. There is potentially a short second pitch for which a number 3 camalot might be helpful.

Of note, the approach ice up the canyon is quite thin and has lots of running water. The warm temps and sunshine is melting it our rapidly. We noticed a significant change from morning to afternoon. The longest steepest step might not be there for long if the temperatures do not cool.

(Apologies for sideways photos below! no matter what they won't load vertically!)

On The Map

These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.