Climbing Conditions

2 photos

Climbing Conditions

We did a 3 day Wapta traverse for OnTopMountaineering on june 5-7. Nothing to report up to Bow Hut, creeks were lower than expected, some small snow patches linger by the hut. Fern line is still at glacier edge, with bare patches starting to show in the center of the ice tongue. Good was good going up and around the Onion on supportive snow, HS 120-150cm. Past the Onion and going towards Thompson HS varies, with a lot of HS 30-50cm stretches and the consequent postholing. A large ice patch in the middle of the plateau traverse makes walking easier.
Mt Thompson can be climbed snow free. Going towards Peyto hut was challenging, lots of boot-top to mid-calves postholing, the glacier is broken up with lots of rock bands showing. Staying more skiers left might be better, but we didn't want to posthole that far out to find out.
There is plenty of snow at Peyto hut to make water, ACC staff flew new shit barrels and checked propane. From the hut and out, travel is easy on dry glacier. We exited the glacier high, skiers left, at the one obvious ramp bellow headwall. Cairns are in place and lead left to a snowy gully that breaches the lower rock band, see 2nd picture. There is a bolted rap station there now, left corner of snowpatch, l used it to lower guests 25m then walked off the snow skiers left. If the gully is snow free, it's a simple walk down. River crossing was easy, water levels are lower than anticipated.
I have a track for the Peyto glacier exit and rap station, contact me if you want it.

On The Map

These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.