Climbing Conditions

2 photos

Climbing Conditions

I just returned from a 6 day trip to the Wapta ice field based out of Bow Hut from June 9-14 with Yamnuska Mountain Adventures. During our trip we made ascents of Mt. Olive, Mt. Gordon and Mt. Habel via the regular routes. The approach trail to Bow Hut is now snow free below tree line on the normal summer approach. Above tree line there are still some lingering snow patches to cross. The Glaciers on the Wapta Icefield are still quite snow covered with an average snow depth of 220cm. We experienced quite unsettled weather throughout our trip with a mixture of sun, cloud and a few warm rain events that sprinkled rain all the way to the mountain tops. We experienced good travel conditions on the glacier in the early mornings and boot top foot steps in the afternoon that made wearing waterproof gaiters a necessity to keep the wet snow out of our boots.

Of note during the week was almost daily wet loose avalanche activity in the surface snow coming out of very steep terrain. (Over 45deg.) This avalanche activity was widespread and on all aspects as there was a variety of triggers: Sun, rain, and just plain warm temperatures.

We also observed one notable Ice fall triggered avalanche off the Vulture Icefall above the approach trail to Bow Hut. This avalanche occurred around 930pm on Wed night. A sizable serac fall was able to pull out a pocket of snow (Slab) all the way to glacier ice. (See Photo) The debris came to within about 100m of the approach trail. A good reminder to give the headwall lots of respect on your approach to Bow Hut.

Happy trails!

On The Map

These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.