Climbing Conditions

3 photos

Wapta Icefields

Bow and Peyto glaciers

Climbing Conditions

We spent from July 30th to Aug 3rd on the Wapta icefields between Bow and Peyto huts. We climbed St Nicholas, Habel Peak and Mt Thompson. In general conditions were good, especially on the Aug 2nd and 3rd where a light freeze at Peyto hut gave good travel conditions until about 9am. Travel was still reasonable even in the afternoons with boot top penetration at worst. The firn line as at about 8500ft (2600m) and rising quickly. Suspect crampons will be needed very soon to gain the right side of the Bow glacier. There were no signs of any significant avalanche activity and we saw no signs of any major new cornice failure. We were starting to poke through some small hidden crevasses due to the hot weather which is to be expected. The smoke from the Verdant fire was variable and we were lucky to have some clear brilliant days.

On The Map

These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.