We spent April 29th to May 4th at a basecamp on the Dais Glacier in the Waddington Range. We arrived straight after a storm with around 35cm of storm snow overlying a well settled spring snowpack. After some investigation and warmup runs on April 30th, we determined the snowpack to be quite stable and begun stepping out, with some amazing steep powder skiing. Our successful objectives:

- Regal Dome
- NE Face Cavalier Mountain
- North Face of The Squire
- NW Summit of Mt Waddington

Avalanches:
We saw a few storm slabs up to size 2 on our flight in. Apart from a small windslab we ski cut above the bergschrund on the Angel Glacier (~ 3950m elevation), the only avalanches we saw were loose wet in the afternoons

Glacier Conditions:
There has been a huge change in the glaciers since my last trip to the Dais Glacier 19 years ago. What I remembered to be straightforward runs down glaciers with few visible crevasses now require extensive zigzagging around open and weakly bridged crevasses.
Accessing the Angel Glacier required descending 150m vertical to avoid sharp sags (and a windslab).
We shoveled in the bergschrund guarding the NW Summit to make a bridge on the climbers right, which looked like the best place to cross. On the way down we were able to ski over the bergschrund directly underneath the summit, which was filled in but had a small (1-2ft) drop.
We had one small crevasse open up on the skin track from one day to the next, a good reminder that glaciers are moving fast this time of year and crevasses opening up.
We probed over 3m of snow in most places, although we could see exposed glacier ice in some places (eg. Fury Gap) and there were many thin looking crevasse bridges.

Other notes:
- There was a 30m pitch of 45-50 degree ice covered with a thin layer of snow from the last crevasse to the NW Summit
- Main avalanche problems are currently windslabs and loose wet.
- Moraines were shedding rocks frequently in the afternoon
- Frequent natural icefall avalanches
- 10 Photos attached

Alex Geary, Dan Robb and Marcus Waring; ACMG Mountain Guides