Waddington from Rainy Knob via Bravo Glacier route, July 15th to 19th. We were aided in our ascent by a party of two Scottish (via Squamish) climbers Ralph and Tim, who broke trail to the Cauldron through serac and avy debris, crossing a fair few thinly bridged crevasses.

Travel from above the Spearman headwall to the summit plateau was smooth, the preceding week's very hot temperatures having stabilized the big slopes, with no natural avalanche activity observed on this part of the route, save for surface wet sluffing on the descent.

The summit tower was quite dry with hands on rock climbing up to the couloir to the top. We did short rappels through the steep middle chimney in order to avoid stuck ropes, a common occurrence judging by the collection of old ropes in this section.

We suspect that the large crevasses on the lower Bravo to the Cauldron will be quickly opening up with continued very temperatures and sopping wet snow after 9am on these south facing slopes.

I have to mention that Pete did an amazing job a year after open heart surgery, and that it was a pleasure to visit BC's highest point five years after my first chance to be there. Also of note was seeing the Airforce Sartechs parachuting onto the Tiedmann glacier, and that the other team cut their rock climbing plans across the valley short due to very high temperatures and the resultant large rockfall.

An amazing big mountain experience with perfect high pressure.