Guided an ascent of Mt. Aberdeen and Haddo Peak today via the Aberdeen glacier. Travel conditions overall were good, despite the poor overnight freeze. Some post holing was encountered, as well as, previous ascent tracks. A good part of the slope below the upper glacier serac has slid (see pic), which looked to be serac triggered. We got an early start (walking by roughly 3am) which was helpful to improve travel and minimize our risk to rockfall while travelling through the steeper, lower glacier. There is a nice sliver of snow on the climber’s RHS of the glacier tongue that allowed easy access to the upper glacier but it will not last much longer. Not as much winter-like conditions or snow up there as I originally anticipated. Aside from the obvious avalanche, there is a good amount of exposed glacial ice below 2700m, and exposed rocks that are just waiting to fall once things warm up more. Probed 120cm of snow on the glacier at 2800m. The bergschrund was easily past and some crevasse bridge sagging was observed. Overall a great day, even with the fickle on/off weather.

Enjoy the rest of the summer! (hopefully it arrives soon) ;)

Patrick Lindsay
Ridgeline Guiding Services