Climbing Conditions

2 photos

Thin ice conditions

Bourgeau RH

Climbing Conditions

We climbed all but the last pitch of Bourgeau Right Hand today. Temps warmed to a balmy -18 and though we saw the sun a few times, most of the day was overcast and snowing very lightly (about 3cm total accumulation), very light wind. The pillar on the crux pitch has broken but is still in place to provide good foot placements. Overall the route is thin and a few stubbies can be useful. With the recent new snow it’s often easy to swing into rock in places you would be expecting ice. All anchors are visible. There is a well packed trail on the approach and up to 20cm of recent storm snow. For the most part the new snow is still low density and we only observed a few pockets of soft slab on the ledges between pitches, but no cracking or reactivity. Two good sized spin drift sluffs came off the steep rock walls towards the end of the day.

On The Map

These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.