I guided an ascent of Nothing but the Breast on David Thompson Highway on February 15th.
The 1st pitch was really thin and covered with 10-20cm of low-density snow. I was only able to screw in a few stubbies on the first 40m. The little ice steps are quite fragile but manageable at the moment. The last third of that pitch had discontinued ice and wasn’t protectable.
The second pitch had good ice and was pretty thick all the way up.
The money pitch (the last one) was in good shape and we took the central line for the first 30m and veered left to climb the final curtain. Unfortunately we encountered very brittle and fragile ice on this last steep section and decided to turn around only a few meters from the top. The ice curtain was only a few centimetres thick and horizontal cracks were propagating at every pick placements. From our position it appeared that the middle section of this last bit was much more thick and would be the best line of ascent.