We climbed Serratus’ N face and the regular route on Tantalus and from a camp outside the Haberl hut July 13th and 14th. Strong climbing and good times with Craig and Mike!
Conditions in the Tantalus are generally excellent with firm snow in the morning, easy glacier travel with few crevasses showing and snow-free rock.
Snow is soft later in the day as you would expect.
Serratus’ N face route is in good nick with crevasses/bergschrunds easily crossed and the summit pitches snowier than usual making for a fun warmup climb.
Many of the old messy sling rap stations in the area have been replaced with bolted rap stations by our colleagues, so a big thanks and kudos to those guides!
Tantalus was mostly snow free for the rock sections and we found solid rock and great climbing in what can only be described as perfect conditions. Again nice to have the new anchors for rapping making our descent more efficient and safer than previously possible.
Conditions near the hut are good for camping, barbecuing and refreshing yourself with your favourite beverages. We had to melt snow as no pools or running water is available yet. Happy climbing everyone!