Hi all,

We just wrapped up a 4day intro to mountaineering course out of the Jim Haberl hut in the Tantalus Range near Squamish July 14-17. We traveled between 1800m-2400m primarily in alpine terrain on the glaciers and ridges between Mount Dione and Mount Serratus. We summited Serratus via the North face route on July 17th. We had good weather with the exception of a short lived cold front that circulated through the area on July 16th. There was no appreciable precipitation associated with this front. This provided cooler temperatures and a good overnight freeze for our climb on July 17th.

There was still lots of winter snow remaining on all aspects in the alpine and on glaciers. Crevasses were opening up however, there were many options for crossing them. Bridges were plenty and generally thick. Bergshrunds & snow moats were our biggest concerns, they were starting to open/breakdown and becoming increasingly difficult to cross. Lots of folks up there enjoying the high season and good conditions. Many of the classics are getting climbed and are reported in good conditions. Ridges are generally dry and snow travel excellent particularly in the morning. Smoke was starting to seep in from the East yesterday morning however, visibility and air quality was very manageable.

Cheers,

David Lussier
Mountain Guide
www.summitmountainguides.com