Over July 29-30 myself and two guests climbed Mount Victoria via the Huber Ledges with a bivy on the ledges.

Travel to the bivy is straight forward and in good shape with a good trail and lots of cairns.

The lower glacier is totally dry. Small amounts of rockfall were observed while at the bivy and heard overnight as well.

The main Huber glacier is dry up to 3150m. Above this we had easy travel conditions with some weak bridges to navigate. Most of these were easy to walk around. It's in much better shape then some of the other glaciers out there.

The bergschrund was filled in and easy to cross but signs of recent rockfall were present. We only observed several small rocks come down but far off the climbing line.

The west face is loose and has no snow in the gullies. Rap anchors for the way down were in good shape and we left one new sling to get back to the ice from the good rock.

The summit ridge is snow free and easy walking. We heard that another team had trouble on the sickle coming from Abbot pass recently.

No photo but Huber looks icy and the schrund potentially tricky.

We didn't see any wildlife, but heard a goat overnight and was told of a adolescent grizzly that has been seen around lake Ohara.

Hope everyone is having a safe and fun summer!

Josh Majorossy
Alpine Air Adventures