Climbing Conditions

1 photos

Spring Mountaineering

Bush, Rostrum, Icefall Group.

Climbing Conditions

Just back from 5 days in the Bush,Rostrum,Icefall group west of the Lyell Icefields. Generally "almost" excellent snow travel. Snow began around 1800m in the forest and in the trees carried well every day except in thin spots. Good travel into the alpine every morning and the moderate angle terrain was still reasonable in the midday sun. Some inversion days where the freeze wasn't quite as good up high but we still had fairly easy snow walking and climbing.

Leaving the skis behind was certainly an error on my part. It was good walking on the approaches but it would have been even better corn skiing.

Primary concern was daytime heating/radiation on steep terrain with LOTS of small to BIG loose wet snow avalanches every clear day after about 8am on East aspects and continuing into a couple of early evenings on all aspects. Shallow snow areas were also a concern for potential small glide slabs, point releases and falling between rocks, into moats etc.

Cornices were HUGE in that big snow country and will likely be a concern for a long while. Glacier travel was good with 3+m of very settled snow in gentle glacier terrain.

A bear and wolverines had passed through the alpine recently so the usual camping etiquette applies at all elevations.

Saw 2 jets over head in 5 days and with only 2 of us it was easy, excellent social distancing.

It felt sooo good to be back in the big Mountains with a rope in my hand!!

Larry Stanier
ACMG Mountain Guide

On The Map

These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.