Climbing Conditions

3 photos

Climbing Conditions

Climbed Kemosabe in the Waiparous Creek drainage yesterday. The drive is much more gentle this year than it’s been in the past, but high clearance is still definitely recommended for some big holes. The approach trail is very well packed from the parking before the river crossing; skis aren’t necessary at all though they may speed travel.

We had consistently strong westerly winds all day, but minimal snow transport (it’s either melted or blown away!). Temps stayed above 0°C, and some sun made for a very warm ‘springy’ day.

The route is climbing very well; P1 is in relatively easy shape with a good sheltered belay stance on the left up about 5m. We tackled the upper pitch up a groove on the right, which presented sustained vertical and some small overhangs but good rests. Other lines are possible, though they were dripping and would be uncomfortably wet in these conditions. Currently, the P2 bolts require some drytooling to reach, though ice anchor options are abundant.

A party bailed off the Ice Funnel the same day; it appears the first pitch below the column may be unformed.

On The Map

These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.