I just got back from a 4 day trip in the Bugaboos camped at Applebee Dome. The running water from the lake still isn’t hooked up yet, but there was running water on the trail below camp from melting snow patches. Half of the campground is still buried with snow, but there's plenty of room given the lack of people (There was only one tent remaining when we left this morning).

June 10th we had plans of climbing Pigeon Spire, but it had quite a bit of fresh snow and rime ice (see photo). Apparently it got climbed June 22nd? Instead we circumnavigated Pigeon Spire and climbed one of the Pigeon Feathers on the way down. We were sinking in boot top to knee deep most of the way above 2500m elevation (gaiters were key). Glacier travel is currently straightforward with minimal sagging crevasse bridges.

June 11th we climbed Bugaboo Spire via the Kain Route. There was more snow than I’ve seen on the route before requiring several detours on the lower half of the mountain (see photo). On the way down at the last bolted rappel, the party rappelling above us triggered a wet sluff that probably would have knocked us off the face if we hadn’t anticipated it and hustled out of the way. Not a hazard you usually have to deal with up there. All the crux pitches and knife edges up high were dry.

Other route conditions from visual:
- All routes around the Crescent Towers looked dry (See photo).
- The 3rd summit of Pigeon Spire looked snowy on the normal route (Photo attached from Saturday)
- West Face of Snowpatch Spire appeared free of snow (see photo)
- Snowpatch Route is still under snow at the snowpatch and was shedding on the Wiessner Overhang.
- All south faces we saw looked dry (Pigeon, Snowpatch, Crescent)
- Marmolata and Howser Towers looked very snowy (see photos)
- East Face of Snowpatch had a few patches of snow up high
- Sunshine Crack had a few small seeping patches but almost looked dry
- Didn’t get a look at the NE Ridge of Bugaboo, but suspect it still has some snow

Good luck!

Alex Geary