Hello. I guided an ascent of South Victoria on July 16th and Yuckness Peak on the 17th. Great trip! Below are the conditions we found or observed.
-Abbot Pass approach slope via Lake O’Hara:
Travel up this approach slope was slower than usual for this time of year due to less snow available to travel on. Not ideal travel conditions. (See pic)
Travel on Vic’s SE ridge to the south summit was fairly straightforward with most travel on dry rock and a couple section (ie. the Sickle) where we used crampons and an ice axe.
We observed Lefroy’s west face and it is not in condition at all. Very minimal snow left and constant rockfall (day & night). (See pic)
We observed Mt. Huber and this peak is also suffering from a lack of snow due to the recent heat waves. It is still climbable but not as straightforward as usual for this time of year. (See pic)
We ascended the scrambler’s route (west face, NW ridge) to the summit. Dry travel conditions. Nothing major to report.
Sad to see this hut not being used but closed for a good reason. It’s support slope on the Lake Louise side sure are eroding. We observed many rocks trundling own and you can now see the ice underneath. (See pic)
Enjoy the summer!
Ridgeline Guiding Services