Climbing Conditions

1 photos

South Ridge

Mt Smuts - Kananaskis

Climbing Conditions

Climbed the South Ridge of Mt Smuts on Aug 26.

The ridge is dry after the dusting of snow earlier in the week. Several variations are possible, but we climbed generally sound ribs of limestone as well as a number of gully features to the climber's right of the ridge which were less solid. We found climbing up to 5.4/5.5 on the ribs. Several pitons were found on the route, some of which were loose. We carried an alpine rack of nuts, small to medium cams and a few pitons and made use of all of it. Protection on the route is generally sparse and requires much searching for good placements.

Descent was made via the North Ridge and West Face. A couple of existing anchors are in place in the loose gully feature approximately 35 to 40m apart which facilitates down-climbing of this feature.

Photo attached is of the North Face of Mt Sir Douglas.

On The Map

These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.