Climbing Conditions

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Climbing Conditions

Just came out from the second of two quick trips to the Devil's Gap area of the South Ghost.

The road to the big hill has its fair share of pot holes, and one or two hills with gnarly ruts, but was manageable in a 2wd hatchback. Slow and steady. The first trip we drove down the big hill and all the way to the river crossing before walking the rest of the way. Driving back up the big hill was a little rough for the little car, so the second trip we walked from the top of the big hill. The standard river crossing at the south end of the dyke is about knee deep, but on foot it's easy to cross a hundred meters north in water that's ankle deep. More than a few stock trucks and a couple lifted 4x4 vans made it past the standard crossing.

Camping by the park boundary was quiet mid-week, and a few people trickled in for the weekend. On our way out today there were many trucks heading for the ghost, but likely only a few climbers amidst the long weekend campers. The only reliable water source was the Ghost River itself. Lots of deer around, coyotes calling at night, crows that didn't bother our hanging food, and some wolf scat around. The bugs were out too, but not too bad.

Early to mid-afternoon thunder showers were almost everyday, sometimes as early as noon. The rock was pretty quick to dry, good to go by the next morning if not just an hour after a short burst. Some of the classic moderates have been updated since the latest guidebook to include some bailing options, but on some you will still need two ropes or an escaper to make the long raps happen.

The Bonanza descent is/was dry, meaning you can rap the first downclimb section from some tat on a tree, though the downclimb is not so bad.

The flowers are out, the birds are chirping, the days are long (though stormy) - it's a great time to be in the Ghost right now.

On The Map

These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.