Hi folks,

I just finished guiding a short expedition to Lobuche East in Nepal with Da Jangbu Sherpa for Adventure Consultants.

The ice is melting fast here in the Himalaya and historically straightforward snow and ice routes on the “Trekking Peaks” are now often mixed climbs.

We had a 40m high rock step to negotiate above the crampon point today, which Da Jangbu said was only 20 meters last year.

I’ve attached a photo from Da Jangbu of the rock step on Island Peak, which was all snow and ice last year.

I also chatted with some climbers that had just come down from the regular route (SW Ride) on Ama Dablam. Half of them had decided not to continue above Camp 2 when they heard a large rockfall in the Great Couloir. Those who did continue said there was no snow and ice in the Couloir. When I was there 5 years ago it was 50% ice, apparently it was 100% ice and much safer in the recent past.

The Khumbu valley is still an amazing place worth visiting, probably better before they finish the road to Lukla that’s apparently progressing slowly.

Alex Geary
ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide

Da Jangbu Sherpa
Expedition Sirdar and Trekking Guide