Climbing Conditions

2 photos

Climbing Conditions

Just returned from Bow hut from July 2-5th. We were an ACC group of mountaineers and climbed Mt Olive and St Nicholas.
Here are a few observations noting some subtle changes.
We arrived after the record heat spell, and still not even close to a freeze while we were there.
The toe of the glacier has certainly melted back and is steeper low down, especially if headed towards St Nicholas. This section will soon be ice which will force you to gain higher on the right or need crampons and carefull walking if climbing directly up.
There are many more rocks exposed when heading under St Nicholas to the benches. leading left to the Olive col.
The ridge on Mt Olive seemed steeper near the upper snow section, and as it was very soft it forced us to the rocks. This short section was easily managed.
The tarns at the Balfour hut area, when viewed from Mt Olive seemed much bigger and more melted out than in previous years at this same time.
Though travel was good in most places, shallow or rocky areas were soft and punchy.
The ice cave is still present at the toe of the Bow glacier. Just above the hole the glacier continues to collapse and caution advised when accessing the glacier near here.
The water at the hut seemed much less silty considering the high volume of melt, not sure why?
A lone mountain goat shared the hut area with us on the last day. I guess he too enjoyed the solitide in the area, which seemed to change as we saw many groups heading up to the hut.

Peter Amann
Dylan Cunningham

On The Map

These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.