A Visitor Safety team did some clean up work on the NW ridge of Mountain Sir Donald on July 23rd. Three well established sling stations on the ridge above the standard rappel route were replaced with bolt stations, and a lot of old tat was removed. These stations are just below the point were the West face bypass rejoins the NW ridge. Each of the three stations is set up to allow a 20-25m rappel down the West side of the ridge to a ledge, from which you can walk back to the ridge. There are small sections of down climbing on the ridge crest required between each rappel. This brings the total number of bolted rappel stations on the descent to 15, and means that you now leave the ridge crest to descend slabs on the West face at station number 8.
The route is in great condition. There was still water available at the lower Sir Donald bivy site, but this may change as the snow has been disappearing quickly. We did not use an axe or crampons to cross the 3m section of snow getting to the Uto-Sir Donald col, and there is no longer any snow on the West face bypass. The smoke had increased overnight and we were both feeling some negative effects of breathing this dirty air all day.

Enjoy!

Glacier National Park Visitor Safety