I spent the last 2 days near Sky Pilot Mountain teaching a mountaineering course for Altus Mountain Guides. There is still a lot of snow in the area, starting just before the end of the logging road. We even saw someone snowboard down from the West Ridge of Sky Pilot yesterday (it looked a little sticky).

Today we climbed the West Ridge to the summit of Sky Pilot in wet conditions. We traveled mostly on snow up to the crux rock pitch, which was wet but free of snow, then found some steep snow above requiring an ice axe until we wrapped around to the south side. From there on there was no snow encountered.

• Snow line starts near end of logging road
• Good travel on snow, despite no overnight free. Boot top penetration at most.
• Good steps/excellent travel ascending stadium glacier to col.
• Crux pink slab, snow free
• Ice axe required above crux

Have fun out there!

Alex Geary
alex@altusmountainguides.com
www.altusmountainguides.com