Summited Garibaldi yesterday in good conditions. The snow had a good overnight freeze and starts by the gate at the end of the road on Brohm Ridge. Skied up all the way to the burgschrund without ski crampons. The burgschrund is passable on both right and left sides. We arrived near the summit mid day, so chose the left side, as the right looked like softer snow around the rocks. There were tracks from Canada Day going right around the burgschrund. Getting through the burgschrund required some steep snow and ice climbing. There are also still a few bits of snow hanging onto the schrund in places. Snow above the burgschrund was getting moist around the rocks. Foot pen increased to 30cm. The snow was firm the whole way on the glacier in the morning. By the afternoon it became moist on the surface and made the skiing sticky on the way down. Also noted some small point release avalanches in the top 10cm of the surface snow. Met some other climbers on foot. Their post holes where at most 15cm deep on the glacier by mid day. Almost no crevasses showing and more snow up there than I have ever seen this time of year.
Kind Regards
Crosby Johnston
ACMG Mountain Guide
778 266 0022