Climbing Conditions

4 photos

Sir Donald NW Ridge

Sir Donald NW Ridge climbing conditions

Climbing Conditions

Up for a flight around Mount Sir Donald yesterday. There are snow patches to cross approaching the Uto Sir Donald Col. There is snow along the northern edge of the upper NW ridge route, however the climbing line on the ridge itself is reported as currently dry. There remains large snow patches on the west face summit bypass descent route. It is best not to use the bypass descent route until snow patches have melted completely. Last year a slip on snow on the bypass lead to a fatality. There are also snow patches on the lower part of the rappel route off the lower ridge. The lower bivi is moist but drying out quickly. The last photo shows snow patches on the rappel route as well as snow patches on the access to Sir Donald Uto col. One climbing party reported the very last rap anchor is missing one bolt.

Percy Woods
ACMG Mountain Guide
Glacier National Park Visitor Safety

On The Map

These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.