Climbing Conditions

1 photos

Silver Star Glacier Conditions - North Cascades

Silver Star Mountain / Burgundy Col

Climbing Conditions

We recently accessed the Silver Star Glacier with 6 students on an AMGA AGC with the American Alpine Institute. Abundant snow remains in the basin below Burgundy Col with good coverage across to the Silver Star Glacier. Getting over the saddle and small rock band (between Burgundy Col and the glacier) was straight forward with a short, 30’ step of 4th class rock which we passed easily right of center with no moat.

Conditions were firm, near perfect cramponing with the colder temps. As you can see from the photos the toe of the glacier has exposed ice passable on the right. The firn line is currently at the bottom of the compression zone with good coverage all the way to the col with cracks obvious or well filled in. We found a good slot to practice crevasse rescue bottom right of the compression zone.

On the way out we ascended 50m up a remnant plug of snow on the backside of Burgundy Col that will soon be gone.

The spring at Bench Camp was flowing well. On the hike out returning to Hwy 20 we had a close call, with the WA DOT removing large boulders from opposite side of the highway and dumping them off the drainage side, just below our vehicles. Several boulders crashed into the forest, crossing the climbers trail just before it joins up with the boulder field out. They seemed oblivious that there was a trail below. We will give them a call but heads up if you see them clearing the road here!

On The Map

These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.