Spent the nights of July 25 and 26 at Mt sir Donald lower bivvy in perfect weather. Both bivvy sites are snow free, and of course the upper bivvy has plenty of adjacent snow for melting, while the lower site has good running water. The approach to the Sir Donald - Uto col can be done with only one 5m stretch of snow to cross, which shouldn't last more than one week. A couple snow patches below the rappels on the Sir Donald descent, which can be bypassed with a little imagination, and snow in the final 4th class section can largely be avoided by taking the optional 2 final raps (ignore the loose one-ringbolt anchor - there is a nice 2-bolt one nearby). Generally firm old snow. A few small patches remain on the west face bypass, reportedly one can skirt these but on slippery peagravel over rock slab, with scant/no protection.
Uto dry, except snow at the bottom of the descent gully below the NW ridge. The ridge/spur just skiers right of the loose descent gully provided a much more pleasant descent, 2nd/3rd class rock.
Smoke was variable but generally good for this season. Great view of an active fire To the NE high on the far side of the Beaver River valley (also visible from TCH).
One medium grizzly seen mid afternoon 50m from camp. Moved away once he noticed us, spent half an hour hanging out around the base of the descent route ;)
Great conditions all in all.

Ruari Macfarlane,
ASG, ARG, CAA Professional Member