Climbing Conditions

1 photos

Schiesser ledges access

Perren route to Schiesser ledges

Climbing Conditions

We did the up Perren / down Schiesser ledges loop as part of guides exam. Of note, going down from the Neil Colgan hut to access the glacier leading to the start of Schieser ledges has gotten worse.
The transition from the trail down to lower angle glacier ice involves going down an unstable 60-70m scree slope sitting on a melting ice core. The rubble is steep, shallow, with several even steeper rolls at crtitical angle of repose, leading to bare ice bellow. We felt this was the crux of the day in terms of hasard.
Bare straightforward glacier across the plateau then leads to the start of Schiesser ledges.
The ledges were snow free and had seen recent traffic, routefinding seemed less problematic than previously remembered.

On The Map

These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.