The Thompson Rivers University, Canadian Mountain and Ski Guide program (CMSG) was at the Neil Colgan hut July 8-10.

The approach via the Perren route is in excellent shape. The Fay glacier still has decent coverage in most parts but the snow is melting quickly leaving some sections quite wet and swampy on the way to the hut. Due to concerns about rockfall and avalanches, we avoided all but the right-hand start option for the West Ridge of Mount Fay There have been numerous relatively large avalanches from the other snow and ice climbs on this mountain and there are still significant cornices remaining at this time.

We also chose to avoid using Schiesser route to approach or descend from the hut due to some lingering snow above the upper portion. We witnessed a significant rockfall event caused by a small avalanche in the upper gully caused by warm temperatures at the same time last year.

Of note, the log across the creek at the end of Moraine Lake was completely covered in fast-moving water both in the morning and the afternoon. We removed our boots to cross but would have brought water shoes had we known.

All the best,

Marc Piché
ACMG Mountain Guide