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Climbing Conditions

Climbing Conditions

Climbed Mt. Victoria today via Huber ledges/Glacier. Still lots of snow in the alpine and it made life easy then tricky today.

Probably the best conditions I have ever seen on the upper Huber Glacier and up the traditional gullies to the Victoria summit ridge. Then, on the summit ridge, it got a little sporty. In flat light/whiteout it was hard to see the extent of the cornicing. Some short steep traversing sections of hard old winter snow with around 10cm of recent cold snow on top felt like real cramponing. All manageable but it took some trickery to provide a reasonable belay. These sections might be avoidable soon or possibly even with good light but be aware the upper ridge is still in wintry shape. Didn't get to see down the ridge towards the hut but I am assuming parts of it are still "good value".

Lower Huber glacier was moist snow in the am and coming down around 11am I was really glad the sun wasn't on it as we might have needed water wings.

Significant wet snow avalanche reported off the west face of Hungabee in yesterday afternoon's sun.

Larry Stanier
ACMG Mountain Guide

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These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.