I guided an ascent of Mt Hector, August 20, 21.
From a high bivouac we found good snow coverage on the north glacier yesterday, August 21st. We chose a left hand variation to avoid some exposed ice on the regular, and steeper, close to the northwest ridge (the ridge that runs from Little Hector to Mt Hector), line of ascent. The route we chose touches the exposed top end of the cliff band that borders the east side of the north glacier.
A good overnight freeze provided fine cramponing, but also created the threat of a trip quickly becoming an out of control slide. A couple of snow pickets would be good to have right now.
The best break in the summit rock step is found by climbing to the highest point of snow and finding a fixed knifeblade. 30 metres higher is a keyhole block slung for rappelling.
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures