Climbing Conditions

Rockies: Mt Athabasca/Boundary Pk

Mt Athabasca/Boundary peak

Climbing Conditions

Todd Anthony-Malone and I guided a group up Boundary Peak yesterday. We had planned to climb Athabasca but winter-like temperatures, recent snowfalls, strong winds and poor visibility made us change objectives.

We approached Boundary Pk via the North Glacier and descended via the Boundary Glacier. There was 10-30 cm of recent storm snow on the lower glacier with one wind loaded convex roll having 1 meter of snow on it. The snow was showing wind slab properties yesterday. The wind had also created numerous soft bridges over open crevasses, we had a few people put a foot into slots and one person actually drop into one, requiring a quick drop loop rescue! The first time that I have had to implement a rope rescue system in 32 years of mountaineering.

Mt Athabasca looked like it had extensive wind effect and loading on the Ramp and Silverhorn routes. I would be concerned for wind slabs up there until warm temperatures settle the snow from the last week.

On The Map

These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.