Summer conditions at Lake O'Hara. As previously reported Mts Victoria and Huber are in good shape via the Huber ledges. Victoria south ridge from Abbott pass is also in great shape as of yesterday. Sickle is still snow but there is some short hard ice patches that must be negotiated higher up on the ridge.

Trail to Abbott Pass hut is in suprisingly poor condition. Unprecedented amounts of people up there this summer, many just destination hut visitors, and many of them seem to falling/bum skidding down the trail and wiping it out. Even the last 100 linear meters to the hut is in the worst condition I have ever seen it.

Lefroy is looking thin and rocks will likely be roaring down it in the daytime heat. Maybe ok for a fast party comfortable down climbing hard snow/ice in the early am of a cool night.

The Glacier/Ringrose couloir had a huge mud/rock slide come down it about a week ago and it is a brown nightmare till it snows a fair bit and cleans it up.

Hungabee west face is drying out nicely and may be a reasonable proposition to climb by later this week.

Both sides of Opabin Pass are dry and scruffy. Expect steep dirt or choss on the Tokkum creek side and a chossy rockband about 50m down on the Opabin side. Otherwise good conditions for the Wenkchemna Opabin traverse.

Biddle and Odaray are in good shape but the gullies to reach the ridges are both steep dirt. Cathedral looks great, some low angle bare ice.

Lake O'Hara is still blue and cold.

Larry Stanier
ACMG Mountain Guide