Climbing Conditions

Climbing Conditions

Pretty fine conditions on a lot of routes in the O'Hara area these days.

Given a nice day and a decent freeze-Huber and Victoria via the Huber ledges are in great shape. Victoria via the SE ridge is in excellent shape. Lefroy was still in great shape on friday but all that snow will melt away eventually.
Glacier peak will be good for awhile but REALLY needs a good freeze to hold all the rubble in place above any of its approaches and descents. Don't be lingering anywhere near it.
Hungabee still has snow on the west face so I would leave it alone till almost all that snow is off the face(serious afternoon rockfall potential)
Odaray SE ridge looks good and the Tarrant/Morrison ridge is almost dry. Grassi ridge and the Wiwaxy peaks are bone dry.
The west side of Wenkchemna pass is in ok shape but a big chunk of good scree midslope disappeared in some avalanche over the winter and there is about 100 vertical m's of tough walking on that descent currently. Tokkum and Opabin glaciers are snowy and friendly as of July 15th

There has been some BIG rockfall off the ridge between Schaeffer and Biddle and elsewhere it has been pretty noisy in the afternoons. To plagarize song lyrics "The heat is on" and "The times they are a changin'"

Larry Stanier
ACMG Mountain Guide

On The Map

These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.