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Climbing Conditions

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Climbing Conditions

Hello All
Here are some current observations from the Alpine Guide exam Aug 27-Sept 5.

We began our course in the Bugaboos where travel has likely changed since lowering freezing levels and fresh snow accumulations. The Bugaboo glacier is complex getting to the 2500m bench and with new snow will be engaging there and all the way to Pigeon. There where many large open crevasses to navigate when visibility was good.
Otherwise most likely snow holding on shady aspects.

The most current Observations are from the Lakes Louise and Moraine Regions.
Our groups traveled Mt. Whyte, Mt.Fay, Schiesser/ Perron Ledges and North Victoria.
On the storm of Sept 2nd up to 20cm was accumulated above 2700m and the freezing level dropped to 2400m.
Light to Moderate winds made for fresh smooth surfaces on the glaciers, covering crevasses
and making for careful route selection.
On Sept 3rd there was limited effect from sun, no wind slabs observed or Naturally or human triggered avalanches.
By the end of the day the Perron route was free of verglas and snow.

With cold upper level temperature continuing, snow has remained on all aspects above 2700m.

Sept 4th we did a quick day in the Bow Valley on routes such a Mt.Buller, EEOR, Norquay Ridge and Mt. Baldy where the freezing level lowered to 2400m. High elevation snow amounts here did not significantly accumulate and has mostly melted away throughout today.

Looks like fall has arrive as our trees begin the transition along with the high mountain peaks.
Enjoy the magic.

Merrie-Beth Board of behalf of The Alpine Guide Course Team

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These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.