I guided a traverse of Haddo Peak and Mt Aberdeen via the east ridge of Haddo Peak on Saturday, July 22nd. Great snow climbing conditions overall and dry rock. From a guide's perspective I could have led the trip with 30 metres of rope and little, or nothing, more. We carried, but didn't use, rock gear and ice screws. Such is not always the case on this route. We descended into Paradise valley and enjoyed good butt sliding for half the way. It's a long, long walk out via the Giant Steps and highly advised to take sneakers to change into, and to have a second car at the Paradise Creek trailhead.
Yesterday, July 24th, I guided the North Face Bypass on Mt Athabasca. There was a dusting of new snow overnight that got blown into the lees but no windslab hazards that I could see. We watched the frost freeze the rain on the car roof at 3:00 am and travel on the glacier was good. As per Craig McGee's previous post, we had good snow climbing anchored to snow pickets gaining the shoulder. Verglas and new snow complicated the climbing above the exit chimney, but I suspect that may have melted today. We descended the Ramp in steps provided by my fellow guide, James Blench, at 3:00pm with pinwheels of the new snow spinning away from our boots.
Seems like the Rockies are sporting some good snow climbing at present.
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures