Climbing Conditions

Climbing Conditions

Took advantage of the July-like conditions yesterday to climb Ha Ling via Sisyphus, and to have a good look around the valley.

The Ha Ling approach trail was almost entirely dry except for a couple of problematic snow patches right where the trail is steep and scrappy at the base of the route. Given their size and aspect, I expect they’ll last for a bit yet, but that's easy to see from valley bottom. It’s possible with a bit of exposure to detour low around them for gaining the shoulder and the NE Buttress. Otherwise, traversing the moat to the start of Sisyphus would be spicy with a firm freeze or light footwear. Beyond that, the whole NE face of Ha Ling was bone dry as is the descent.

On the route there are plenty of early-season handhold souvenirs still hanging about, of course, and a feast of ticks that must have hitchhiked up somehow, but otherwise the peak was in fine shape and it felt like mid-summer there yesterday.

Looking across from Ha Ling to EEOR, there was still a bit of snow lingering on the summit shingle (mainly above Generosity area) and a couple of small seeps on the face, although the descent looks basically dry already and more typical of 6-8 weeks from now. Still, with the signs of moisture up there, I’d be expecting plenty of rockfall from those soupy scree slopes up top, and for that reason, we gave it a pass yesterday. However, with today’s rain and a few of the warm days in the forecast, I’d be surprised if the snow isn't melted and the seepage dried up very soon.

Elsewhere in Spray Lakes, anywhere shady above 2200m had some kind of snow coverage and above 2500m still looked pretty white.

Enjoy,

Carl Johnston
ACMG Alpine & Rock Guide
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures

On The Map

These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.