I've just descended from a 2 night stay at the Neil Colgan hut. The Perren route is in good shape without any snow. Most ice gullies on the North Face of Mt Fay are now littered with exposed rubble. Continuous rockfalls were observed from snow and ice slopes in the area, including the North slopes of Mt Little. A low line while approaching the hut may help to reduce exposure. Three other parties chose not to climb routes on Mt Fay due to rockfall hazard while we were there. Our group decided to avoid the ice slopes of Mt Fay and climbed Mt Little and Mt Bowlen. The traverse from the Little/Fay col over Mt Little to the hut was in good condition, as was the scramble up Mt Bowlen.

James Walter
Alpine Guide, ASG
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures