Mt. Matier, NE Ridge; Joffre S. Buttress Descent
As has been noted in other MCR trip reports, the glaciers are changing quickly in the onslaught of hot temps. Typically there are obvious visual clues of crevasses this time of year and “trap door” events are rare. As we descended from Matier a member in our rope team did poke a leg through a hidden crevasse, shown circled in red on the picture. This was only a couple meters from the boot track and well away from the obvious adjacent slot. I just wanted to throw a heads up out there to be careful with conditions when the snow is this hot, especially in the afternoons.
As a side note, we climbed Joffre’s E. Ridge the following day and descended the S. Buttress via rappels. We noticed a lot of “off route” rappel stations, some of which were quite sketchy looking. The established piton anchor had no cord on it anymore so we rebuilt the station. We had two ropes which reached the glacier (hard to pull) so did not see the other stations. It would be good for us to all utilize the same rappels vs. leaving tat all over the mountain and/or rapping into the heinously loose gullies where rockfall could inflict injury to rope or climber.