Climbing Conditions

3 photos

Professor Falls - Ice conditions

Banff National Park

Climbing Conditions

Climbed Professor Falls on Sunday, Feb 13, 2022. Micro spikes were useful for the icy trail approach. No significant avalanche hazard was present on Sunday.

The lower three tiers are in very good shape with good protection and fat ice. Some surface water was present, but a mostly dry line was possible on each tier.

The lower angle ice sections above this are mostly walking on old avalanche debris as a result of several very large avalanches earlier in the season. The remaining step of ice in this section is not hard climbing, but has a very thin 1 cm thick top out with water running under it. Hopefully cooler temperatures help thicken this soon.

The final pitch is currently only about 10 m high with the other 20+ m covered by avalanche debris. It is also very thin at the top with water flowing under the ice so care was required. The new anchor at the top was appreciated because the traditional cave belay is covered with debris. All the needed rappel/belay stations were in good shape.

Photos of the thin middle and final pitches as well as the avalanche debris are included.

Morgen Funston and Conrad Janzen
Visitor Safety/ACMG Guides
Banff, Yoho & Kootenay National Parks

On The Map

These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.