Climbing Conditions

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Rockies: Beauty Creek (and other jasper ice)

Climbing Conditions

Climbed Shades of Beauty, Rick Black and Stanley Falls Sr. on Friday. Bootpack now in to all three - but with just a skiff of new snow over only 20cm of huge facets over dry ground, trailbreaking was easy. All 3 routes seemed to climb around WI4 in present conditions. Mainly good ice on shades, which is fat. Rick black is dry and very brittle on the upper half; however it's beat in with bucket feet and some hooking available - which may help you avoid huge dinnerplating. Stanley was hero ice, in perfect shape. Chalkstoned is not in; however the mixed route right of shades looks good for at least the first pitch. A 70m single rope seemed the most efficient for all routes, and allowed us to use bolt anchors except on Stanley.
Undertow and other upper tangle ice did not appear to be in, not promising, from what we could see from Stanley.
Debris from a previous size 2 avalanche had just made it over over the next real route left of shades (dagger feature), it appeared several days old.
(Poor) Photo of Curtain Call included too, in case you're into that kinda thing. Looks less challenging than in photos from a few weeks ago.
Kerkeslin was nice and Fat but also soaking wet a few days earlier.
At a glance driving by, mixed master appeared mainly there but a bit scrappy after some recent warm sunny days, and missing some of the final pitch. Dead eye dick basically gone. A lot of fat ice on the weeping wall.

On The Map

These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.